Brow Treatments at MMM Beauty: Your Questions Answered

Meghan at MMM Beauty in Brackley answers the questions she hears most often from brow clients, covering everything from threading and HD Brows® waxing to tinting and lamination.

1. What is brow lamination and how does it work?

Short answer: Brow lamination is a semi-permanent treatment that uses chemical relaxers to straighten and set brow hairs upward, creating a fuller, more defined appearance that lasts 6-8 weeks 1.

Full answer: Brow lamination works by applying ammonium thioglycolate (ATG), a chemical relaxer, to break down the disulphide bonds that determine hair structure. This allows the hairs to be reshaped and set into a straighter, lifted position using a setting solution. The process is similar to chemical hair relaxation treatments used in hairdressing. The results typically last 6-8 weeks as new hair grows in, and the treatment works best on naturally wavy or unruly brows. Professional brow lamination is a BABTAC-accredited service when performed by qualified therapists 2.

2. Is brow lamination safe for sensitive skin?

Short answer: Brow lamination is generally safe for most skin types, but those with very sensitive skin or active allergic contact dermatitis should perform a patch test 48 hours beforehand 3.

Full answer: The ammonium thioglycolate used in brow lamination is applied only to the hair shaft, minimising direct skin contact. However, individuals with a history of allergic reactions to hair relaxers, extremely sensitive skin, or those currently experiencing skin irritation should request a patch test before treatment. The chemical does not penetrate deeply into the dermis when applied properly. BABTAC guidelines recommend a thorough consultation and patch testing for any client with known chemical sensitivities 4. Those with active dermatitis or open wounds on the brow area should postpone treatment until the skin has healed.

3. Can I use retinol or tretinoin while having brow treatments?

Short answer: Tretinoin users must stop treatment 5-7 days before waxing or lamination, as retinoids thin the epidermis and increase risk of skin damage 56.

Full answer: Retinoids, including tretinoin and prescription-strength retinol, increase skin cell turnover and thin the stratum corneum, making the skin more fragile and prone to irritation from chemical treatments like brow lamination. Waxing should also be avoided during active retinoid use due to increased risk of burns and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. If you're using tretinoin, cease treatment at least 5-7 days before scheduled brow waxing or lamination appointments. Threading is a safer alternative for those currently using retinoids, as it avoids chemical or heat-based trauma to the skin 7. Always inform your therapist about any active skincare treatments during your consultation.

4. What is the difference between threading and waxing for brows?

Short answer: Threading removes hair by twisting thread, offering precision and suitability for sensitive skin, while waxing uses heated wax adhesion and is faster but can irritate sensitive areas 8.

Full answer: Threading is an ancient technique that uses twisted thread to trap and remove hair from the follicle, offering excellent precision for shaping and suitability for those with sensitive skin or active acne. Waxing applies heated wax to the skin, adheres to hair, and removes multiple hairs at once when the wax is stripped away it's faster but can cause irritation, redness, or ingrown hairs in sensitive individuals. Threading is preferred for clients using retinoids, those with rosacea, or anyone with a history of adverse reactions to wax. Both methods remove hair from the root, resulting in regrowth in 2-4 weeks 9. Your therapist can recommend the best method based on your skin type and hair texture.

5. Does threading hurt?

Short answer: Threading sensations range from a quick snap to a brief flick; most clients find it manageable, with sensitivity improving after the first treatment as tolerance builds 10.

Full answer: Threading creates a distinctive sensation as the twisted thread snaps or flicks hairs from the follicle, often described as a quick pinch or snap rather than ongoing pain. Many clients find the discomfort manageable and much less intense than anticipated. Pain tolerance and sensitivity vary individually and are often highest on the first visit; with repeat appointments, tolerance typically improves as the skin becomes accustomed to the sensation 11. Threading differs from waxing in that it causes a brief, sharp sensation rather than sustained pulling discomfort. If your skin is primed with active skincare ingredients like AHAs or retinoids, sensitivity will be heightened, so inform your therapist beforehand. Most clients report that once they've had threading once, subsequent visits feel far less daunting 10.

6. How long does threading last?

Short answer: Threading results last 2-4 weeks depending on individual hair growth cycles, with most clients rebooking every 4 weeks to maintain shape 12.

Full answer: Threading removes hair at the follicle level, and regrowth becomes noticeable as new hairs enter the anagen (growth) phase of the hair cycle. The duration of results varies individually: some people experience 2-3 weeks of smooth brows, whilst others see regrowth at 4 weeks or slightly beyond. Hair growth cycle length varies based on genetics, hormones, and individual biology 13. Coarser hair often regrows more noticeably than finer hair, and repeated threading over time can weaken hair follicles and reduce the density of regrowth, meaning some clients find their brows stay clear for progressively longer intervals after multiple treatments. Most clients maintain their desired brow shape with appointments every 4 weeks, though some stretch to 5-6 weeks depending on their individual growth rate 12.

7. Do I need a patch test for brow tint?

Short answer: Yes, a 48-hour patch test is required for all brow tinting clients, including those with prior tinting history, because para-phenylenediamine (PPD) can trigger delayed allergic reactions 14.

Full answer: Professional brow tints contain para-phenylenediamine (PPD), a colourant that can trigger Type IV delayed hypersensitivity reactions in the skin. Importantly, this type of allergy can develop even if you have used brow tint without reaction previously, as sensitisation builds gradually with repeated exposure 15. UK professional standards and BABTAC require a minimum 48-hour patch test before any tinting appointment to identify allergic responses before full application. The patch test involves applying a small amount of tint to the inner forearm or behind the ear and observing for redness, itching, swelling, or irritation over 48 hours 14. If any reaction occurs, the treatment must be postponed and an alternative method (like lamination or waxing) discussed with your therapist. Even if you have had tinting before without issues, you must still have a patch test at each appointment, as sensitisation is cumulative.

8. Can I get brow treatments if I have eczema or psoriasis?

Short answer: Brow treatments are possible with eczema or psoriasis, but timing and method choice are critical avoid treatments during flare-ups and discuss suitable options with your therapist 16.

Full answer: If you have eczema or psoriasis, brow treatments should be avoided during active flare-ups when the skin is inflamed, itchy, or broken. Between flare-ups, threading is generally the safest option as it avoids chemical contact and heat exposure 17. If you prefer waxing, ensure the skin is completely clear and discuss the risk of irritation with your therapist beforehand. Brow lamination should be avoided if you have a history of adverse reactions to chemical relaxers; a patch test is essential. Always inform your therapist of your condition during consultation, and consider working with a dermatologist to identify when your skin is stable enough for cosmetic treatments 16. Post-treatment, avoid scratching or picking at the brow area, as this can trigger or worsen dermatitis.

9. Can I get brow treatments while pregnant?

Short answer: Threading is generally safe during pregnancy; waxing is usually safe but skin may be more sensitive due to hormonal changes; tinting and lamination should be approached cautiously in the first trimester 18.

Full answer: Threading is typically considered safe throughout pregnancy because it involves no chemicals or heat exposure, only mechanical hair removal. Waxing is generally safe during pregnancy but clients often report heightened skin sensitivity due to hormonal fluctuations, so inform your therapist of your pregnancy status for them to adjust their approach 19. Brow tinting and lamination warrant more caution, particularly in the first trimester when chemical absorption concerns are highest. PPD in tints and ammonium thioglycolate in lamination are topical chemicals with systemic absorption potential, and whilst professional application is localised, many practitioners advise deferring these treatments or exercising particular caution until after the first trimester 20. Always disclose your pregnancy to Meghan at booking so she can discuss the safest options for you and your baby. Some practitioners require written clearance from your midwife or GP before proceeding with chemical treatments in pregnancy 18.

10. How do I grow my brows back after over-plucking?

Short answer: Dormant follicles take 4-12 weeks to re-enter the growth phase; stop all hair removal and allow 6-8 weeks minimum before assessing regrowth 21.

Full answer: Over-plucking can push hair follicles into a prolonged resting phase (telogen), during which no hair grows from that follicle. Recovery time depends on follicle health and damage: if follicles are not permanently scarred, they typically re-enter the anagen (growth) phase within 4-12 weeks 22. To encourage regrowth, stop all hair removal from the brow area completely, including tweezing, waxing, threading, and shaving. Allow a minimum of 6-8 weeks before assessing whether hairs are returning, as the hair growth cycle is slow and patience is essential. During this recovery period, Meghan can advise on brow mapping that works around sparse areas, brow tinting to define your natural shape whilst hair regrows, and brow lamination once there is sufficient hair to work with 21. Avoid pulling or plucking stray hairs during recovery, as this further traumatises the follicles. If after 12 weeks you see no regrowth in certain areas, those follicles may be permanently damaged, and you may need to work with permanent solutions like microblading.

11. Are there any allergies or contraindications I should know about?

Short answer: Common contraindications include active skin infections, open wounds, severe allergies to chemical relaxers or adhesives, and certain medications; always disclose your medical history 23.

Full answer: Before brow treatments, inform your therapist of any allergies particularly to adhesives (in lamination), thioglycolic acid (in relaxers), or hair dyes. Brow treatments should be avoided if you have active bacterial or fungal infections on the brow area, open wounds, severe sunburn, or recent chemical peels 24. Certain medications that increase photosensitivity or affect skin healing may influence treatment timing. If you're on anticoagulants or have a bleeding disorder, discuss this as waxing and threading can cause minor bruising. A thorough patch test (applied 48 hours before treatment) is recommended if you have a history of contact dermatitis or sensitive skin 23. Never withhold medical information; your therapist needs complete context to ensure your safety.

12. What should I do to prepare for a brow treatment appointment?

Short answer: Arrive with clean skin, avoid sun exposure 24 hours prior, skip exfoliating products the day before, and refrain from caffeine to minimise sensitivity 25.

Full answer: To prepare for your brow appointment, cleanse your skin gently the morning of your treatment but avoid scrubs or exfoliants the day before, as this can make the skin more sensitive. Avoid direct sun exposure for 24 hours prior to your appointment, as sunburned skin is more reactive to cosmetic treatments 26. Skip caffeine on the day of treatment it can increase skin sensitivity and make waxing or threading slightly more uncomfortable. Wear comfortable, loose clothing that won't irritate the brow area post-treatment. If you're prone to sensitivity, consider taking a mild pain reliever 30 minutes before your appointment (though most brow treatments cause minimal discomfort). Arrive with realistic expectations and be prepared to discuss your desired outcome with your therapist 25.

13. What should I avoid after my brow treatment?

Short answer: After brow treatments, avoid touching the area, vigorous exercise, hot water, chlorine, and makeup for 24 hours to prevent infection and irritation 27.

Full answer: Immediately after threading, waxing, or lamination, your skin will be more sensitive and the pores will be open. Avoid touching, picking, or scratching the brow area for at least 24 hours this prevents infection and reduces inflammation 28. Refrain from hot showers, saunas, or swimming in chlorinated pools for 24 hours, as heat and chlorine can irritate freshly treated skin. Skip intense exercise or activities that cause sweating for 24 hours. Avoid applying makeup, heavy moisturisers, or skincare products with active ingredients (like retinoids or acids) on the treated area for 24 hours 27. If redness or minor swelling occurs, apply a cool compress and an unscented moisturiser. If you experience prolonged irritation, contact your therapist or dermatologist 28.

14. Can I wear makeup after threading?

Short answer: Wait minimum 24 hours before applying makeup to the brow area pores are temporarily open and the skin is sensitised, increasing risk of bacterial infection 29.

Full answer: After threading, the follicles are open and your skin barrier is temporarily compromised, making it vulnerable to bacterial infiltration from makeup brushes, sponges, or fingers. Applying makeup within 24 hours risks introducing bacteria into open follicles, which can cause folliculitis or infection 30. After the 24-hour window has passed, you can resume makeup application. When you do apply makeup, light mineral formulations are gentler than heavy foundations, as they are less likely to clog pores or trap bacteria. Avoid waterproof or long-wear formulas immediately after threading, as these require more aggressive scrubbing or makeup remover for removal, which can further irritate the treated skin 29. If you must apply makeup sooner than 24 hours (for example, for an event), use only sterile applicators and minimise contact with the threaded area.

15. Is brow lamination suitable for fine hair?

Short answer: Fine hair is generally well-suited to lamination the process lifts and sets fine hairs that might otherwise be flat, creating apparent fullness and definition 31.

Full answer: Fine hair is often an ideal candidate for brow lamination because the treatment lifts limp, scattered hairs into an upright position, creating the visual appearance of fuller, more defined brows. The chemical relaxer breaks disulphide bonds in all hair types equally, but fine hair benefits particularly from the positioning effect 32. However, fine hair does require careful timing during the lamination process: the chemical processing time must be shortened to avoid over-processing, which can cause brittleness or breakage in delicate hair strands. Fine hair that is already damaged, bleached, or chemically compromised should proceed with caution or defer lamination until hair health improves 31. If your fine hair is extremely sparse, lamination alone may not create the fullness you desire; Meghan can discuss combining lamination with tinting or other techniques to enhance the appearance of density. A thorough consultation and patch test are essential for fine hair to ensure the processing time is appropriate 32.